The starting point

Travelling to India is like going back in a time machine to the 1950's. You first notice the old decaying buildings which appear to have been untouched by paint since they were built. Original power and telephone lines straddle the neighborhoods like giant cobwebs. And clothes hang from every residential building. India is also a land of social and economic contrasts. New luxury cars zoom past countless people sleeping on the street at night.

If you like to be surrounded by thousands of people, you'll love India. If you're even slightly bothered by pollution, then you won't. Want an adrenaline rush, try crossing a major street in Mumbai. Despite the traffic chaos, there are few accidents because the locals are good at dodging each other.

You've survived the street, now you're ready for some "Indian food". All restaurants have menus in English and they're usually open until midnight. I went to the "Leapold Cafe" on Colaba and ordered Tandoori chicken with rice for one person. Two enormous plates emerged from the kitchen which would have been enough to feed four hungry diners, chased down with an equally large Kingfisher beer. This came to about $4. Fresh vegetables and exotic fruits are readily available.

After you've eaten, a browse through the street market will bring out the bargain hunter in you. When you're ready to get your email and internet fix in an A/C room, you'll see signs on most streets. One hour will set you back rs 20-40. Some also offer Skype when you have to see the other person or they have to see you.

Hotels are really quite interesting. Unless you're staying at an expensive one, they often present a challenge. I stayed at one in Pune about four hours bus ride from Mumbai, and had no water one day, and no hot water another day. Of course there wasn't any soap, towel or toilet paper either...picky, picky.